Focus Modes

The focus mode that everyone usually works in is One Shot AF. It suits any static subject, and sometimes even slowly moving objects. When you shoot in One Shot AF mode, you frame your scene using the viewfinder and press the shutter button halfway. The autofocus system turns on and the lens focuses directly on the main subject. At this stage, a green light lights up, confirming focus, and you can also hear a sound confirmation.

Once the camera has established a focus point, it locks it. If you keep your finger on the shutter button, the focus will not change - even if you move the camera. This useful feature is called "Focus Lock". It allows you to first focus on a point outside the scene, then rotate the camera and compose. For example, imagine you are photographing a landscape. The camera may want to focus on the furthest hills, but you want to increase the depth of field by focusing on a point that is closer to the camera. All you need to do is tilt the camera down a little so that this point comes into view. Now press the shutter button halfway, make sure the camera has focused (the green confirmation light will light up), and keep the shutter button halfway pressed while you compose your landscape.

One Shot AF mode has another useful feature. The camera will not allow you to take a picture if the lens is not focused. If the focus confirmation signal blinks, it means that the lens was unable to focus and nothing will happen after pressing the shutter button completely.

Shutter button

• the mirror inside the camera is raised up so that the light flux can reach the back of the camera
• the shutter mechanism starts - the curtains open and the film (or digital sensor) begins to receive light flux
• if the built-in flash is raised or an external Speedlite is installed and turned on on the camera, the flash fires
• the mirror returns to its previous position
• the shutter returns to its original position and is ready for the next exposure

AI Servo AF mode

AI Servo AF mode is essentially the same as One Shot AF, only without focus locking. The lens automatically refocuses whenever the distance between the camera and the subject changes. This feature is very useful when photographing moving objects. This mode is most often used in sports photography. However, it must be used with caution. In this mode, you can take a picture even when the lens has not yet focused or has failed to focus. In addition, if any moving object appears between the camera and the subject, the lens can focus on the object located closer to the camera. All of this can result in out-of-focus images.

In AI Servo AF mode, the green focus confirmation light will not light up, and you will not hear a confirmation beep (even if it is turned on). However, in both One Shot AF and AI Servo AF modes, the green light will blink if the camera is unable to focus on the subject.

There is a slight delay between the lens focusing and the shutter releasing. Although it is measured in fractions of a second, it can be taken into account when photographing fast moving objects - for example, a racing car at a speed of 160 km/h travels approximately 4.5 m in 1/10 s. This means that while the car might be in focus when the shutter button is pressed, it may not be in focus when the shutter itself opens.

Many EOS cameras solve this problem with predictive focusing technology. The camera measures the distance to the subject each time the lens refocuses. By analyzing this data, the camera can calculate the speed and direction of the object's movement. It then extrapolates the information received to determine where the subject will be when the shutter is released. Next, the camera refocuses the lens to the calculated distance so that the subject is in focus at the time of exposure. Predictive focus mode is activated automatically when needed.

Custom function

In One Shot AF mode, partially pressing the shutter button activates the autofocus system. Once the camera has focused, it will maintain that focus as long as you continue to press the shutter button. This means that you can focus on a random point, and then you can rotate the camera and compose the scene without changing focus.

Focus locking is effective when the main subject is not well lit or has insufficient contrast for the lens to focus on it. In this case, you focus on any other object that is at the same distance from the camera as the main subject.

Focus lock mode is not available in AI Servo AF - the lens will constantly refocus as you move the camera. However, setting CF 4-2 on the EOS 1N and 1V allows you to pause auto refocus in AI Servo AF by pressing the AE Lock button.

AI Focus Mode

The third focusing mode - AI Focus - is actually a combination of the first two. Most of the time the camera is in One Shot AF mode, but if the focus sensor detects that the main subject is moving, the camera automatically switches to AI Servo AF mode and begins tracking the subject.

How does the camera determine that the subject is moving? As soon as we press the shutter button halfway, the focus sensor begins to work constantly. If the focusing distance changes, the camera detects that the subject is moving - and can determine the speed of movement. As soon as this speed exceeds a certain threshold, the camera switches to AI Servo AF mode.

Typically, AI Focus mode is used on inexpensive EOS models - it is assumed that this mode is used by people with little experience in photography. With AI Focus, you can focus on the story while the camera chooses the best shooting mode for you.

On some models, different autofocus modes are set by the camera based on the selected shooting mode - for example, One Shot for landscape mode and AI Servo for sports mode.

All EF lenses support autofocus. However, there are some non-EF lenses in the EOS system that need to be manually focused. These are lenses from the Tilt&Shift series - TS-E 24mm/45mm/90mm, as well as the MP-E65 f/2.8 1-5x Macro lens.

Autofocus modes

This table shows the autofocus modes of EOS cameras. You can set the mode yourself [·], or the camera itself sets the autofocus mode depending on the selected shooting mode [o]. All cameras except the EOS 650 and 620 have predictive focusing in AI Servo AF mode.

(·) - AI Servo AF is not available when the EOS 1N RS is set to RS mode (similarly when the EOS RT is set to RT mode).

Selecting an autofocus mode

It's always useful to know what the camera does - in this table you will find all the necessary information.

Selecting an autofocus mode is only possible in the creative zone (P, Tv, Av, M, DEP), and only on some cameras. In other shooting modes, the camera makes the choice itself:

U - the user selects the mode himself
OS - One Shot AF Mode
AF - AI Focus AF Mode
AS - AI Servo AF Mode

Manual focus

Finally, there is a manual focus mode. It can be used with any EOS camera, but is not a function of the camera, but of the lens. Look on the side of the lens, next to the red dot - you will see a switch with two positions - "AF" and "M". Switch it to the "M" position and the lens will no longer focus automatically. Instead, it will focus according to how you rotate the focus ring on the lens itself. The only EF lens without manual focus is the EF 35-80mm f/4-5.6 PZ - this lens with a focusing motor (Power Zoom) was sold with the EOS 700.

All EF series lenses are designed with autofocus in mind. If you have used older FD lenses, you may find that manual focusing on EF lenses is not as smooth as on fully manual FD lenses. Additionally, from infinity to the closest distance, the focusing ring scrolls quite quickly, making precise focusing difficult in some cases. Be that as it may, it depends on the specific lens.

In general, why do you need manual focusing on autofocus lenses? There are some situations where the autofocus system will be quite difficult to cope with: scenes with low contrast - for example, landscapes in fog or the surface of the sea; low-light scenes (in fact, this is a special case of a low-contrast story); extremely bright reflections from water, ice or metal; Subjects that move too quickly to be automatically focused on; scenes in which the main subject is not closest to the camera (for example, an animal in a cage behind bars).

If the main subject is close to the camera, the camera's built-in focus assist system (or a more powerful Speedlite flash) can help, but it only works if the subject is not very far away.

In all such situations, the best solution is to focus the lens manually.

Many USM lenses allow you to focus manually immediately after autofocus has been achieved - without the need to constantly switch between manual and auto focus modes. This feature is called Full-Time Manual Focusing (FTMF). This is particularly useful when using telephoto lenses to make final adjustments to focus just before shooting. You can check if your lens has this feature by turning the ring immediately after autofocusing has finished.

How to choose autofocus mode?

Autofocus mode is selectable only in the creative zone (P,Tv,Av,DEP,M). In fully automatic mode (green square) and PIC modes, the camera itself sets the autofocus mode (see table). All you have to do is make sure that the lens is mounted correctly on the camera and is in autofocus mode ("AF").

The EOS 1, 600, 620 and 650 cameras display "M.Focus" when the lens is switched to manual focus mode; On other models, switching to manual mode is not displayed.

After autofocusing, you can lock the focusing distance by setting the lens to "M" mode. This will allow you to remove your finger from the shutter button, compose, and shoot at the original focusing distance.

EOS 1, 1N, 1V, 1D, 1Ds, D2000, DCS 3
Press the AF button at the top left of the camera and at the same time rotate the option wheel until “One Shot” or “AI Servo” is displayed in the top right corner of the LCD.

EOS 10
Press the yellow AF button on the back of the camera and at the same time rotate the option wheel until “One Shot” or “AI Servo” is displayed in the upper right corner of the LCD.

EOS D30, D60
Press the AF button at the top right of the camera and at the same time rotate the option wheel until “One Shot” or “AI Servo” is displayed in the upper right corner of the LCD.

EOS 10D
Press the AF button at the top right of the camera and at the same time rotate the option wheel until “One Shot” or “AI Servo” is displayed in the lower right corner of the LCD.

EOS 1000/F, 1000/FN, 300, 300V, 3000, 3000N, 500N, 5000, 700, 750, 850, IX7
The autofocus mode is set automatically by the camera depending on the shooting mode.

EOS 30, 33, 50, 50E
Switch the AF mode dial to "One Shot", "AI Focus" or "AI Servo".

EOS 5
Press the AF mode button on the back of the camera. Rotate the Option Wheel until the LCD displays “One Shot,” “AI Focus,” or “AI Servo.” If you release the AF mode button, the selected mode will remain active for 6 seconds.

EOS 600, 620, 650, RT, IX
Press the AF mode button located under the flap on the back of the camera. Rotate the option wheel until the LCD displays “One Shot,” “AI Focus,” or “AI Servo” (just “Servo” on the EOS 620 and 650).

Photos - David Hay, Paul Exton

source eos.nmi.ru 2002-2006 Alexander Zhavoronkov

No matter how long you've had your digital camera, there's always something to learn. And if you've just bought your first DSLR, the learning curve can seem incredibly daunting.

But this should not scare you and discourage you from working. In this article, we'll help you get the most out of your DSLR camera by explaining some of the key features found in almost every model.

Learning the functions of the camera and its controls early in your familiarization with photographic equipment will help you avoid some common mistakes, and therefore make your photos better and more beautiful.

Front panel of the camera body

1. Red-eye reduction lamp

To prevent red eye from appearing in the frame, you need a light source that will compensate for the bright light from the flash. This lamp is such a light source. The lamp also acts as a convenient indicator for the self-timer countdown.

2. Focus ring

In auto focus mode, this ring rotates until the camera focuses on the subject. In manual focus mode, you can rotate the ring yourself and focus on the desired shooting point.

3.Zoom ring

Rotate the ring clockwise to zoom out and get a wide-angle shot. When you turn the ring counterclockwise, you will get closer to your subject and get a close-up view of the subject you are shooting.

4. Flash button

When shooting in semi-automatic or manual mode, you have the option to turn on the built-in flash. To do this, you need to click this button.

5. Focus mode switch

Here you can set the AF (autofocus) mode if you want the camera to focus itself. You can also switch to MF (manual focus) mode, in which case you will control the focus yourself. In manual focus mode, you can use the AF points in the viewfinder to tell you exactly what your camera is focusing on.

6. Image stabilization switch

IS (image stabilizer) lenses are designed to prevent blur caused by camera shake (which is especially noticeable when you focus on a distant subject). Nikon lenses have a similar VR (vibration reduction) switch.

7. Built-in microphone

Most cameras such as the Canon 500D (pictured above) can now record video. Audio for these videos is recorded via the built-in microphone.

8. Depth of field and preview button

By clicking on this button, you can see what your frame will look like with these settings.

Rear panel of the camera body

1. Exposure compensation button

In. During manual operation, hold this button and rotate the main command dial to open or close the aperture.

2. Selecting a focus point

Press this button and then rotate the channel dial to select the camera's AF point to use.

3. Exposure lock button

This button allows you to lock the exposure. You can also use it to zoom out on a photo when viewing it on the LCD in playback mode. It also allows you to focus the camera when using Live View.

4.Live View

Click here to see what the camera captures on the LCD screen. The newest cameras have Live View, which eliminates the need to view the scene through the viewfinder.

5. Four control buttons

These buttons allow you to navigate through the camera's menus and submenus. Also, each button allows you to get to a specific settings menu. Thus, the buttons provide quick access to popular functions such as WB (white balance) or AF (autofocus).

6. Self-timer

This button allows you to change the camera's shooting mode and set timer shooting.

7. Play button

The play button allows you to view the pictures you have taken.

8. Delete button

The button with the universal trash can symbol allows you to delete files that you decided to get rid of when viewing on the display.

9. Menu button

By clicking on this button you will have access to a wide range of menus and submenus where you can change the settings to suit your requirements.

Top panel of the camera

1. Built-in flash

When you're shooting in low light, the built-in flash can help you get a decent shot. In some modes, you will need to turn it on manually. In scene modes, the flash activates automatically.

2. Shutter button

This button is necessary to take a photo. By pressing the button halfway, you will be able to focus, or activate automatic focus. When pressed fully, the camera will take a photo.

3. Main control dial

Rotating this dial allows you to manually set the camera's aperture or shutter speed.

4. ISO button

By pressing this button you can adjust the ISO sensitivity. You can then use the main command dial to increase or decrease the ISO level. You also have the opportunity to set ISO manually using the corresponding menu item.

5. On/Off button

This will allow you to turn off the camera when not in use (although it will automatically go into sleep mode after 30 seconds of inactivity).

6. Mode dial

On the mode dial you can set the desired shooting mode. The disc contains all possible scene modes, semi-automatic and manual mode.

7. Hot shoe

Using a DSLR camera, you will have the opportunity to install a flash as an additional light source. An external flash is usually more powerful and easier to control.

Top reasons to buy a versatile 35mm lens

The history of luxury 35mm lens goes back to the early days of photography. This is one of the best lenses ever made, with a brilliant focal length that can be used for any photography. Whether on a full frame or cropped camera, this lens has its own added value.

35mm optics dominate not only the world of photography, but also cinema. In the days of film cameras, “35 millimeters” corresponded to the width of the film used. This format was later adapted for photography and has not lost popularity since then.

During the First World War, 35mm was widely used in Leica cameras, which were used mainly to capture outstanding war images.

Now, let's look at the various factors that speak in favor of this lens.

How is a 35mm lens useful?

In this article, we will list the main reasons why you should get a 35mm lens if you don't already have one:

· This is ideal for taking photos while walking if you want to photograph everything you see.

· It is much more versatile than any other optic option. Also superior to the 50mm lens as it gives you a wider and more varied perspective.

· This type of optics provides fairly wide-angle coverage on a full frame, as well as on a camera with a “cropped” matrix.

· At f/1.4, this lens is the fastest in its category and lets in a lot of light when wide open. Therefore, it is good for shooting in difficult conditions with insufficient lighting.

· The 35mm focal length draws you closer to your subject. Therefore, it is suitable for both street photography and portraiture, when the subject becomes especially important.

· This lens may be enough for you to shoot landscapes.

· With this lens, you can get close to your subject because the minimum focusing distance is much shorter than other lenses with focal length ranges above 35mm.

· This is a miniature lens with low weight, which means it won't burden you too much, and you can almost always take it with you.

· This lens is usually the most frequently used and quickly pays for itself.

· At f/1.4, it produces stunning portraits with wonderful bokeh.

· Has a large maximum aperture, is inexpensive and has multi-purpose applications.

5 things you should know about DSLR cameras

Buying a camera is the most important choice for every photographer. This article provides 5 criteria, based on which you can choose the camera that is right for you. We'll talk about matrix resolution, shooting modes, user interface, and much more that you should know when choosing.

The world of photography has reinvented itself with the advent of digital technology. Gone are the days when only a select few, people with a lot of money, could engage in photography. Now almost everyone can afford to buy a camera.

There's a lot to be said for the convenience of compact cameras, but for optimal image quality and limitless creative possibilities, look no further than a real semi or professional camera.
The increasing popularity and availability of DSLR cameras is fueling fierce competition between major camera manufacturers such as Canon, Nikon, Pentax and Sony.

This state of affairs is extremely beneficial for consumers, as camera manufacturers strive to constantly improve their products, introducing new innovative features into cameras that increase their performance and improve image quality, while making DSLRs easier to use. But what are the key factors to consider when choosing a camera? This is what we will talk about today.

Advantages of DSLR cameras

The advantages of DSLRs over more compact cameras are many and varied - first of all, the size of the image sensor. Many compact cameras may have the same or even more megapixels than a DSLR, but resolution as such is not a key factor in image quality and should not be forgotten!

The image sensors in DSLR cameras are physically larger than those in compact cameras, and this makes a significant difference in image quality. First, a larger sensor means more pixels, which individually capture more light. This in turn helps to significantly reduce digital image noise and grain that can occur when shooting at high ISOs.

Secondly, the larger sensor allows for a shallower depth of field, which means you can get beautiful bokeh and nice background blur that will look great when shooting macros and portraits.

Another important advantage is that a DSLR allows you to see the world through the lens as it will subsequently appear in the photograph.

Ideal camera

A DSLR camera is more convenient to use, manual zoom and focusing rings on the lens allow you to focus with much greater accuracy and get the shot you were aiming for.
In addition, by purchasing a SLR camera, you open up a whole world of possibilities and discoveries, you are acquiring a whole system. You will have the opportunity to purchase and change lenses and various accessories that will make the creative process more enjoyable and productive. On the other hand, when buying a compact, you limit yourself to only one camera, which in a year, at most, will seem not enough for you.

Today we will take a closer look at the main fundamental differences between different types of SLR and compact cameras, as a result of which you can make the right choice when deciding on the type of camera you want to purchase.
Body design and new features of SLR cameras.

Most DSLRs are designed based on their predecessors, but unlike previous models, the new models offer many innovative improvements.

Shooting modes

All DSLRs typically have the usual set of modes, which include auto, manual, aperture priority, shutter priority, and modes suited to different types of scenes. So-called scene modes are available on cameras designed specifically for beginners, cameras such as the Canon EOS 60D and Nikon D3100. The same modes are also available on compact cameras. Mode selection most often occurs through the wheel on the top panel of the camera.

LCD display

The LCD display is important not only for accessing the menus of a digital camera, it is also the main way to view footage, to check the accuracy and sharpness of the frame.
Relatively inexpensive cameras such as the Canon EOS 1100D often have a low LCD resolution of around 230K pixels, while prestigious models such as the Canon EOS 60D can have a resolution of 1,040,000 pixels.

Mirror

The main difference between a DSLR and a compact is that a DSLR has a mirror assembly that reflects the image from the lens upward into the optical viewfinder, allowing you to see very precise focusing and zoom positions.

Autofocus
A larger number of autofocus points allows you to focus on the subject as accurately as possible, while such cameras have several points that allow you to track chaotically moving objects in continuous autofocus mode.

Inexpensive DSLR cameras typically have nine or eleven autofocus points, while more sophisticated models have more autofocus points. For example, Nikon D800 is equipped with 51 focusing points.

ISO sensitivity

Sensitivity has improved significantly in many DSLRs recently. The maximum ISO level has been increased, which means you can now photograph in low light conditions much more productively. Increasing ISO makes the sensor more sensitive to light, allowing the camera to capture even the weakest rays of sunlight without the need for long shutter speeds.

The higher the ISO you use, the higher the sensitivity, but as sensitivity increases, digital noise increases. Older models such as the Canon EOS 1000D typically have a maximum ISO of 1600, while modern models such as the Canon EOS 1100D offer much higher sensitivity, around 6400 in the standard range, expandable to 12800 ISO.

Professional full-frame models such as the Nikon D4 allow you to shoot at sensitivities up to ISO 24,800. Improved sensors, combined with advanced image processors, make it possible to take great-looking photos with little noise, even at high ISOs.

Number of megapixels

The number of megapixels is often the first criterion that not very experienced amateur photographers pay attention to when purchasing their camera. In fact, resolution plays far from the first role in choosing a camera.

What resolution is desired? The first SLR cameras were equipped with matrices with a resolution of about 6 megapixels. This seems like an extremely low resolution compared to today's standards, but even this was enough to produce decent A3 photos.

Today, the smallest resolution among DSLRs is equipped with a matrix with a resolution of 12.1 MP. Nikon, in particular, is pushing the boundaries among entry-level DSLRs, for example, the Nikon D3200 boasts the best resolution in its class, equal to 24.2 MP. and its latest full-frame model, the D800, has a 36.3 megapixel sensor.

A few years ago, Canon had the highest resolution cameras, but now the company is playing catch-up with other companies, APS-C cameras have a resolution of 12.2 megapixels. (for 1100D) up to 18 MP. (600D, 60D and 7D), the full-frame camera is equipped with a 16.1 megapixel matrix (1D Mk IV), as well as 22.3 megapixels. (on the new 5D Mk III).

However, Nikon's flagship, the D4 full-frame DSLR, costs around £5,000 and has a sensor resolution of "only" 16.6 megapixels.

Creative pruning

Images with higher resolution allow you to crop the image as much as is convenient for you. For example, if during a telescopic zoom you did not get the object as large as you wanted, then having a camera with a higher matrix resolution, you will be able to crop your photo without losing quality, thereby bringing the object closer.

In this case, another problem may arise, this is the quality of the optics. If your camera lens isn't of high enough quality, you risk getting chromatic aberration (color fringing) in your image.

File sizes

High resolution of photographs indicates a large weight of images, especially if you photograph in RAW format. For example, RAW images shot with an EOS 600D or 7D can weigh around 25MB, while an image of the same format shot with a Nikon D90 and D300S will weigh around 10MB.

This means not only that your memory card will fill up faster, but also that the camera may run slower when shooting in continuous mode.

Noise level

Very often, camera manufacturers equip their camera with a sensor with a high resolution, but the physical dimensions of the sensor are insufficient, as a result, the matrix does not capture much light, and graininess appears. Noise begins to appear especially strongly when shooting at high ISO values.

As manufacturers develop the latest sensors and image processors, they strive to minimize noise levels.

Shooting video with a camera

Until recently, video recording was only available on compact cameras. The advent of Live View, which allows you to take pictures using the LCD rather than through the viewfinder, means more and more DSLRs boast high definition (HD) and video capabilities.

Evolution

The functionality of the first SLR cameras was quite narrow. Video recording, in general, initially appeared on more professional models such as the Canon EOS 5D Mark II, and only over time began to appear on the entry-level Nikon D3200 and Canon EOS 650D models.

Considering how quickly video recording capabilities have developed, among other companies, Sony has lagged a little behind the level of its cameras, precisely in this parameter. But models like the A580 and SLT A55 have taken the company to a new level and now Sony products can compete not only in image quality, but also in video quality.

HD formats

Improvements in DSLRs keep pace with the times, so cameras released a year or two ago, as a rule, offer high quality video recordings and 720p resolution. The 720p format is progressive, meaning each frame is created in one pass.

By comparison, with 720i (interlaced), a frame is created by scanning two alternating lines (half-frames). The latest cameras are usually capable of recording Full HD high definition video at 1080p resolution.

Frame frequency

A range of frame rates, including 24, 25, 30 and 50fps (frames per second), allows you to create video files that are as good as those created on a camcorder. The video quality can match film and television standards around the world.

This is becoming especially important as DSLRs are increasingly being used to shoot professional video for TV commercials and video clips. When you consider that the size of the sensor increases, which means the background blur becomes more noticeable, camera operators can achieve excellent depth of field in their videos.

Sharpness

One of the main problems encountered when recording video with DSLR cameras is autofocus. To create the clearest video possible, good autofocus tracking is essential. The Canon EOS 650D is the first entry-level DSLR to offer fast, sharp autofocus for video shooting.

Viewfinder

A good viewfinder is essential for taking beautiful photographs. It is important not only for accurate photo composition, but also for greater precision when it comes to focus adjustments.

Pentamirror

Cheaper entry-level DSLRs, such as the Canon 1100D, and even some of the more expensive models, including the Canon EOS 650D and Nikon D5200, use a pentamirror viewfinder. They are cheaper to produce and lighter in weight than pentaprism. Such a viewfinder is created from a set of three separate mirrors.

The main disadvantages of DSLR-based pentamirror viewfinders are that the images they produce are a bit darker and moodier, and may lack image contrast a bit. Of course, this does not affect the quality of the created image, but simply distorts the image that you see through the viewfinder. Without knowing about such distortions, you may not accurately adjust your camera, and as a result you will end up with an image that is not the one you expected to see.

Pentaprism

It is not for nothing that a pentaprism viewfinder is considered the best viewfinder for cameras. More expensive and professional cameras have a pentaprism viewfinder, such as the Canon EOS 60D and EOS 7D, Nikon D7000 and D300s, and all full-frame cameras such as the Nikon D600 and Canon EOS 6D.

A pentaprism viewfinder is made of five single-sided blocks of glass; the pentaprism reflects the image onto the mirror twice, creating an accurate image of reality. A pentaprism viewfinder is relatively heavy and more expensive than a pentamirror viewfinder, but the result is higher quality and brighter images.

Electronic

For compact cameras that do not have a built-in optical or electronic viewfinder (EVF), a special electronic device is often used that allows an external viewfinder to be attached to a camera such as the Olympus.

An additional EVF slot, most often of the hot shoe type, is mounted on the top of the camera, and is often quite expensive, costing around £150 (up to £200). Another disadvantage of an external viewfinder is that it cannot be used simultaneously with an external flash, which is attached through the same hot shoe.

Review

Ideally, the view should be 100%, that is, you see the image through the viewfinder the same size as it will be captured on camera, but often not so. Many viewfinders, especially cheaper ones like pentamirror ones, tend to only provide 95% of the view, so you won't be able to see everything that ends up showing up in the photo.

In practice, this is not a big problem; you can even find some advantages in this. So, you will always have a little space left at the edges, which may come in handy when leveling the horizon (rotating the picture a few degrees)
Good pentaprism viewfinders provide about 98% field of view, while the best ones provide a full 100% field of view.

Zoom

Zooming and the ability to get the image as close as possible is of great importance. For example, the Canon EOS 550D only offers 0.87x magnification, while the Canon EOS 7D gives a direct zoom of 1.0x.

Performance

Photography of moving objects, or in reportage photography, it is very convenient to shoot in continuous shooting mode, so this criterion is also important when choosing a good camera. In addition, high frame rates can be very useful in portraiture, allowing you to capture fleeting facial expressions.

Continuous shooting

By switching the camera to continuous shooting mode, the camera will continue to shoot as long as you keep your finger on the shutter button. Memory buffer limitations limit the ability to record images. Cameras like the Canon EOS 1100D and Nikon D3100 can only shoot three frames per second, while flagship cameras like the Canon EOS-1D X can shoot up to 12 frames per second (or 14 frames per second if shooting in JPEG format).

Mid-range cameras like the Canon EOS 7D are capable of shooting at 8fps, while the Nikon D300S shoots at 7fps, which can be increased to 8fps with the optional MB-D10 battery grip.

Computing power

To achieve the highest possible shooting speeds, cameras must have high processing power so that they can process all the images in quick succession. The image processing chips in the newest cameras tend to be much more powerful than those in older models. Some cameras, such as the high-speed Canon EOS 7D, actually have dual image processors, giving them even greater performance.

In this note, I am not going to reinvent the wheel, but will simply present the available information in a systematized and, I hope, understandable form. I would venture to assume that what is described below applies to all Nikon cameras equipped with the AF-ON function, both digital and film. I'll use the Nikon D90 as an example.

What is AF-ON?

This is a function that allows you to separate the focusing process from the shooting process. On professional versions of DSLRs, the AF-ON function is presented as a separate button, while on amateur ones it is usually possible to program some standard button for these purposes.

How does AF-ON work?

When AF-ON mode is active, the shutter button no longer initiates the focusing process when pressed halfway and serves only its intended purpose, i.e. to release the shutter. Focusing occurs only when you press the AF-ON button.

What's the use of this?

There is only one obvious plus:

You can focus on the target object, and then, without touching any buttons, frame for as long as you like and take pictures without fear of losing focus. Of course, for the same purposes, you can switch the camera or lens to manual focus mode, but this is less convenient and there is a chance of losing focus.

Now about the advantages that are not so obvious:

The thing is that the shutter button can usually work in two modes, shutter priority mode and focus priority mode. In the first mode, when you press the shutter button, the frame is taken immediately without delay, and in the focus priority mode, the frame will be taken only when the camera confirms the presence of focus. Thanks to this feature, you can get additional interesting effects (1 and 2).

Effect 1

With shutter priority active and continuous focus mode (AF-C) active, you can get AF-S and AF-C modes in one package.

AF-S mode

• Pressed AF-ON, focused;
• released AF-ON;
• rebuilt the frame if necessary;
• pressed the shutter button.

AF-C mode

• pressed AF-ON, the camera will focus continuously while the AF-ON button is pressed;
• Without releasing AF-ON, press the shutter button as many times as necessary.

Effect 2

With focus priority active, you can get a “trap” mode, i.e. The shutter will fire when an object appears exactly in focus:

• set the lens focus to the desired distance (either in manual focus mode or using the AF-ON button);
• we check that there is nothing in focus at the moment;
• press the shutter button fully and hold it;
• The shutter will be released when an object appears at the specified point.

Effect 3

Another not entirely obvious advantage of the AF-ON mode is that when you half-press the shutter button, the exposure meter, the stabilization system in the lens (if any) and other auxiliary elements are activated, which are quite active consumers of battery energy, and, since In AF-ON mode, the shutter button is usually pressed only to take a photo, then the battery charge will be enough for more shots.

Now let's move on to specifics, i.e. to Nikon D90.

Enabling AF-ON mode on Nikon D90

You need to go to the camera menu “Custom Settings Menu”, select the parameter “f4 - Function of the AE-L/AF-L button” and set it to AF-ON. That's it, the AF-ON mode on the D90 is activated, and the AE-L/AF-L button plays the role of the AF-ON button.

Using AF-ON mode on Nikon D90

Now about the sad thing... The D90 does not have shutter button mode settings:"-(

The shutter button modes are strictly related to the focus modes, namely:

• AF-A - hybrid mode (depending on the situation, acts either as AF-S or AF-C);
• AF-S - focus priority;
• AF-C - shutter priority;
• M - shutter priority

Therefore:

1. Effect 1 on the D90 can be used to its full potential by simply switching to AF-C mode;
2. There are problems with effect 2. Since it requires focus priority to work and is only available in AF-S mode, we are limited to using autofocus lenses exclusively on the D90. Lenses that instantly switch to manual focus (usually kit lenses) provide some relief, since the camera does not perceive such adjustments as a transition to manual focus mode (M), but this does not add much joy due to the fact that effect 2 would be very useful when working with lenses without autofocus.

Publication date: 16.09.2015

We recently talked about how automatic focusing works in modern SLR cameras. But any type of focusing also has several operating modes. The photographer can choose from them the most suitable for a specific shooting situation. So what autofocus modes are there? When should you use which one? Let's figure it out...

How to enable the desired auto focus mode on your camera?

Let's start with something simple: how do you switch focus modes on Nikon cameras?

• First, make sure that autofocus is turned on at all. Check the switches on the lens and on the camera itself!

On the simplest models (for example, Nikon D3300 and Nikon D5500), it is important to follow only the switch on the lens. It should be in the AF position.

• Now that autofocus is turned on, select the desired mode.

• Ready! You can now focus in the selected focus mode.

Single frame autofocus. AF-S

Single-shot autofocus, or AF-S (Auto Focus Single), can be called the main, basic autofocus mode. This is usually the default. In this mode, focusing occurs as follows:

Pressing the shutter button halfway activates the autofocus system;

The camera focuses at the point selected (by you or automatically), and then informs the user about this using a sound signal;

After this, the focus is locked at the specified position until the shutter button is pressed all the way (and the frame is taken) or simply released.

All the features of this mode follow from this simple algorithm.

• AF-S mode is good for shooting static scenes. Let's say you're photographing a landscape, still life, or a person posing for you. In this case, the focusing object does not move anywhere. This means you can focus on it once, and then calmly shoot or recompose the frame, keeping the shutter button half-pressed. An important nuance: after focusing has been achieved and the camera has given a signal about this, you cannot change the distance between you and the object being photographed (approaching it or moving away). This will cause the subject to be out of focus again. This is especially important when shooting portraits with high-aperture optics: there, even a change in distance of a couple of centimeters threatens to make the model’s face blurry. If, nevertheless, the distance is broken, all that remains is to refocus.

Nikon D810 / Nikon AF-S 50mm f/1.4G Nikkor

AF-S mode is great for taking posed portraits. The main thing is to remember that after focusing, you cannot change the distance between you and the subject, so as not to lose focus. After focusing, don't waste time - shoot right away!

• AF-S mode is not suitable for shooting moving subjects. Since the focus is locked at a certain position after focusing, it cannot track fast-moving objects in the frame. But in our world there are quite a lot of them. These include frolicking children, animals, athletes, and all kinds of transport: bicycles, cars... It is extremely difficult to shoot moving objects in single-frame focusing mode: there will be a lot of focusing errors.

Nikon D810 / Nikon AF-S 18-35mm f/3.5-4.5G ED Nikkor

AF-S mode is great for landscape photography. It allows you to accurately select the required focusing point, after which the focusing will not “run away” anywhere.

Continuous autofocus. AF-C

Focus tracking mode, or AF-C (Auto Focus Continuous), works differently. By pressing the shutter button halfway, you turn on automatic focusing. Now it will “follow” the subject at the selected focus point until the photo is taken or the shutter button is released.

Continuous autofocus is great for shooting fast-moving subjects. Use it to photograph sporting events, children's games, and frolicking animals. There is a ton of diverse movement in the world - don't miss it! At the same time, modern technologies of 3D tracking and dynamic selection of focus points allow automation to select the appropriate autofocus point. A separate lesson will be devoted to how to work with zones and focus points.

Continuous autofocus is not suitable for shooting and recomposing the frame after focusing. A favorite technique of some photographers is to focus on the central focus point, and then, with the focus locked, recompose the frame as you like. This technique is inconvenient to use in continuous autofocus mode, because when the frame is recomposed, focus will be lost. The only option is to reframe the frame while holding down the AF-L button, which requires a fair amount of finger dexterity.

Nikon D600 / Nikon 80-200mm f/2.8 ED AF-S Zoom-Nikkor

It is more convenient to photograph animals of any degree of wildness with the AF-C focusing mode. This way they definitely won’t run out of focus at the moment of shooting!

AF-A mode

The AF-A (Auto Focus Automatic) mode is available in amateur and advanced devices. (Nikon D750, Nikon D610, Nikon D7200, Nikon D5500, Nikon D3300). In this mode, the camera’s automation itself determines which of the two autofocus modes (AF-S or AF-C) is appropriate in a given situation. The AF-A mode is suitable for beginner photographers: it allows you not to think about choosing an autofocus mode, the camera will make the choice for you.

Autofocus operating modes when shooting via Live View

From a recent article on autofocus types, we know that focusing through the viewfinder and focusing through the Live View screen involve completely different mechanisms. When focusing through the camera screen, a type of autofocus called contrast autofocus is used. It has its own operating modes.

Single-shot autofocus AF-S

This mode is similar to the mode of the same name, available when focusing through the camera viewfinder. When you press the shutter button halfway, the camera focuses on the selected point. Once the operation is successful, focus is locked until the shot is taken or the shutter button is released.

And here continuous autofocus AF-F works a little differently than AF-C. Focusing occurs not when the shutter button is half-pressed, but when it is released. That is, constantly. When the shutter button is pressed halfway, focus is locked. This method allows you to constantly monitor the subject of shooting, without losing sight of it even for a second.

Autofocus lock with AE-L/AF-L button

We know that autofocus is locked in AF-S single-shot focusing mode after focusing by holding the shutter button half-pressed. But in AF-C mode this does not happen, and autofocus “follows” the subject to the bitter end. However, in both modes, the focus can be locked in the position in which it is currently located. For this purpose, there is a button to lock autofocus and autoexposure AE-L/AF-L (Auto Exposure Lock/Auto Focus Lock). So, by pressing this button, you will lock both the focus and exposure settings in the position they are in. However, in the camera settings you can independently specify what to block with this button - both parameters, only exposure or only focus.

Autofocus (AF) is a feature that allows the camera to automatically focus on the subject. Most digital cameras have this feature. There are a variety of autofocus methods, the availability of which depends on the camera model. The choice of method depends on the shooting conditions and the subject you want to photograph. In automatic modes such as Intelligent Auto or Scene Selection, the autofocus mode cannot be changed.

Autofocus methods

In this section, we will tell you about the autofocus methods of the α series cameras.
The two main autofocus methods are AF-S and AF-C. Their principles of focusing operation after pressing the shutter button are half different from each other.

AF-S (Autofocus for one shot)

Autofocus occurs when the shutter button is pressed halfway. As soon as the object comes into focus, the focus is locked.
This method is suitable for shooting still subjects, such as landscapes, or for snapshots.

AF-C (full-time autofocus)

Autofocus continues to operate and adjust focus as long as the shutter button is pressed halfway and held there.
This method is suitable for shooting moving subjects, such as sports photography or shooting from a train window.

AF-A (automatic autofocus)

This autofocus method is only available on cameras equipped with an A-mount. When the shutter button is pressed halfway, the camera automatically detects whether the subject is moving or not and switches the autofocus method to AF-S or AF-C according to the shooting conditions.
Use this mode to shoot different subjects at the same time or to avoid manually switching autofocus modes.

Manual Focus (MF)

Manual Focus (MF) is a feature that allows the photographer to manually adjust focus without relying on the camera.
Although autofocus (AF) is the most standard way of focusing in digital cameras, manual focusing may be required when autofocus does not find focus, such as in macro photography.
Manually, you can adjust the focus position by turning the focus ring on the lens. Refer to the user manual for details on how to switch focus mode to manual focus and other focus details.

The photo above shows the NEX-F3 with the SEL1855 lens. The focus ring is highlighted in red. When the camera is set to manual focus mode, you can adjust the focus manually by turning the focus ring.

Lens: SAL50M28 / Focal length: 50mm / F-number: 4.0

This image was taken using the SAL50M28 macro lens. The focus is on the drop of water on the left side of the foreground, and the background and foreground are significantly blurred. When you need to accurately focus on a small area, like in this photo, we recommend that you use manual focus. Manual focusing also comes in handy when the camera can't find the focus you want using auto focus.