What does the exhibition consist of? Exposition - what is it? Museum exhibition. Setting the exposure in the camera

Before I became acquainted with photography, the word “exposition” was associated with an exhibition in some museum. Those. something they want to show me. The same can be applied to photography.

In photography, exposure is the result of the process of light hitting a light-sensitive element (camera sensor or film) over a certain period of time. If the photo turns out the same or almost the same as the real scene we were shooting, then the exposure was correct and the photo was then exposed correctly.

If the photo turns out darker than the actual scene, the photo is underexposed. Conversely, if the photo is lighter than the actual scene, it is overexposed.

Let's look at the factors that influence exposure.

Aperture, shutter speed and ISO are key exposure parameters

It is classically believed that exposure is controlled by two parameters - aperture and shutter speed. With the aperture we regulate the amount of light supplied to the matrix, and with the shutter speed we control the amount of time this light enters. Both of these parameters are interchangeable, which means that we can get the same exposure by changing either one of these parameters, or both at the same time.

For example, we can influence exposure only by changing shutter speed.

The above photos are taken at f/8, the exposure changes by changing the shutter speed.

Or vice versa, you can adjust the exposure only by changing the aperture.

These photos were taken at a constant shutter speed of 1/250 sec. exposure changes as the aperture changes.

And you can adjust both of these parameters at the same time.

In these photos the exposure is the same, but the aperture and shutter speed are different.

This is where the name exposure pair comes from - a pair of related exposure parameters.

Why only two parameters? Because in the film era we could not change the third - the film's light sensitivity; it was constant and depended on the type of film loaded into the camera.

In the digital era, we can change the light sensitivity (ISO) and choose our own for each frame.

Thus, exposure is equally affected by aperture, shutter speed and ISO.

Can we say that by changing any one of these parameters, be it aperture, shutter speed or ISO, we will get the same picture? No, you can't say that. Changing one of the parameters or changing all of them at the same time will always produce different results, but the illumination (exposure) will be the same.

The aperture value affects the change in sharpness and (DOF). The wider the aperture is open, the smaller the depth of field, and vice versa.

Above is an example of how the depth of field changes when the aperture changes. The wider the aperture is open, the blurrier the background.

Shutter speed affects the fixation of the subject in time. If the object is static, for example a landscape, then shutter speed can be neglected. But if the scene contains moving objects (waterfalls, people, cars), then shutter speed will affect the final result. The shorter the shutter speed, the more clearly the moment will be captured, and conversely, an excessively long shutter speed will blur the photograph.

In this photo, the shutter speed is too long, so the moving car is blurry.

What is the effect of changing ISO? Ideally, with different ISOs, the photograph as a whole should not change. But in real conditions, the lower the ISO set on the camera, the better. Because with increasing ISO, noise appears and the color rendition of the image changes.

Let's look at how high ISOs affect photo quality. Below is a photo with flowers.

Now let's look at a fragment of a 100% enlargement of the same scene in the photo at different ISOs.

As can be seen from the example, the higher the ISO, the worse the quality of the photo, since noise appears, which introduces extra “dirt” into the photo.

Conclusions:
Exposure is one of the key concepts in photography, and if you decide to take photography seriously and shoot not only in automatic mode, you definitely need to understand how to adjust exposure when photographing using aperture, shutter speed and ISO.

Surely many of you will be quite surprised when you find out how much very necessary and at the same time very useful information in practical work can be obtained by looking through the camera viewfinder. In today's article we will try to tell you about perhaps the most important component of photography - exposure, and how to take photographs with the correct exposure, using only the information that the photographer sees in the viewfinder of his camera.

Perfect exposure

When a person first picks up a camera and begins to get familiar with it, the most difficult part for him or her is usually understanding the exposure. What is it, what camera settings affect it, how to choose the right exposure... Beginners usually take one frame first, then carefully look at the result (fortunately, now there is no need to waste time and effort developing film). After this, change the shutter speed, aperture and photosensitivity settings. And again they take pictures. And so, hoping for luck, you can carry out experiments ad infinitum.

Isn’t it easier to first understand the essence of the issue, rather than waste time and energy? We believe that you should strive to understand how all these settings affect the final result of all the work, and as soon as this understanding comes to you, you will easily learn how to take good pictures according to your technique.

Having mastered all this knowledge, it will be quite easy for a beginner to interpret a test shot in order to correctly set up his camera, and after just a few shots, achieve a good result.

But here we want to give you one great tip that can completely change your opinion about the correct exposure setting. Know: your camera itself can tell you your mistakes in exposure settings! Moreover, it will help you come to its ideal value without even taking your eyes off the viewfinder eyepiece!

In our article today you will receive a short guide, designed for the most inexperienced amateur photographers. In it, you'll learn how to make your state-of-the-art DSLR take pictures that aren't too light or too dark. We will try to present the material in the simplest words, without relying on the special language of techies.

But before we start talking about the actual matter, we note that everything stated here today applies to digital SLR cameras, in particular to Canon cameras. Therefore, we will give examples specifically based on them. Well, it’s not at all difficult to interpret all our advice for cameras from other manufacturers.

The main idea of ​​the exhibition

So what is this exposition anyway? Exposure is the amount of light falling on the light receiver, the matrix of your camera (or, as before, photographic film). The more light that hits the light receiver, the brighter the picture will be. And, naturally, vice versa: the less light there is, the darker the photo.

The amount of light that hits the camera's light receiver is controlled by shutter speed and aperture. Shutter speed is the period of time for which the camera shutter opens, letting light into the matrix. Exposure is measured in seconds or fractions thereof. On cameras it is usually indicated in fractional numbers - for example, 1/100 or 1/500. This means: one hundredth of a second or one five hundredth of a second. For beginners, this time seems incredible, but, nevertheless, modern cameras are capable of working at shutter speeds down to one eight-thousandth of a second. Therefore, now it will become very easy for you to understand why the shutter speed of 1/250 is much slower than, say, 1/50. Thus, it turns out that at a shutter speed of 1/250, five times less light will hit the matrix than at a shutter speed of 1/50. In the first case, the frame will turn out darker, in the second, lighter.

But here you should take into account and never forget another important point: the longer the shutter speed at which you shoot, the more chances you have of getting an out-of-focus and blurry shot. A person’s hands are shaking, and, for example, for an inexperienced photographer, even when shooting at a shutter speed of 1/30, the image in the photograph may turn out blurry. The same thing can happen if you photograph a moving object.

Now let's understand the diaphragm - what is it? The aperture is a hole in the lens whose diameter can be adjusted. Naturally, the hole is not in the lenses themselves, but is formed by the movement of metal petals located between the lenses, which, mutually moving or moving apart, change the diameter of this hole, and thus transmit more or less light to the light receiver.

The aperture on a camera is designated by the so-called aperture number, which is expressed as a fraction with the focal length of the lens in the numerator F/x. The smaller the number in the denominator, the larger the diameter of the diaphragm opening. This means that more light will hit the sensor, resulting in a brighter picture. And vice versa: the larger the aperture number, the smaller its opening. With a small aperture opening, less light will reach the light receiver, and the picture will be darker. Let's repeat again: the F/16 aperture is smaller than the F/5.6 aperture. Shooting under the same conditions, in the first case you will get a darker picture, and in the second case, a lighter one.

It’s important to know something else about aperture, as well as shutter speed. Namely, the wider the aperture opening, the smaller the depth of field in the image will be. In other words, the sharp area of ​​the image will extend a shorter distance than if you were shooting the same subject with a narrow aperture. Let's give a simple example: when shooting with an aperture of F11, everything in the picture will be sharp from one meter to infinity. And if you take sharp photographs with an aperture of F 2.8, you will have a segment of only a few centimeters.

Photosensitivity

Light sensitivity is measured in ISO units. Today we will not look into this in detail. Let's just say that the higher the ISO number, the greater the light sensitivity. The more the matrix senses light. In other words, when shooting with the same shutter speed and aperture at ISO 100, you will get a darker photo than at ISO 800. But you shouldn't increase the light sensitivity without a specific reason. The higher the ISO number, the worse the image quality. As this number increases, so-called color noise also increases.

Exposure metering in the camera

So, let's try to sum up some intermediate results. In order to get a brighter frame, you need to make the shutter speed longer, increase the aperture opening, and increase the light sensitivity of the matrix. All these parameters can be changed individually or all together. Well, if you want to get a darker picture, in this case you will need to change all the parameters in the opposite direction: make the shutter speed shorter, close the aperture, lower the light sensitivity of the matrix. After some time, you can easily learn to feel the interaction of all these three parameters.

Modern cameras, especially SLR cameras, are very technologically advanced; they are literally crammed with various electronics. Almost all of them are equipped with an automatic mode for adjusting shooting parameters. And when you take photographs in this very automatic mode, the camera itself will make all decisions for you independently, without any intervention from you. But, despite this, you must be able to shoot without automation, and you must learn to make all exposure decisions yourself. Working completely manually is not a whim. This is sometimes necessary. By adjusting all the shooting parameters yourself, you can get completely different results. Simply put, by refusing automation services, you turn into an artist, a creator. You can, for example, adjust the depth of field, the overall tonality of the image, and much more.

Now we will tell you some good news. When in manual mode, your camera will give you hints on how to get the right exposure. Naturally, “from her point of view.” Let's take out the camera, turn it on and point the lens at some object. Now press the shutter button halfway. Did you hear a beep that indicates the autofocus system has engaged? This means that the camera has decided on what it considers the main subject to be photographed and has focused the lens correctly.

However, this signal does more than just confirm that autofocus is working. There are many processes going on in the background of your camera. To understand what exactly these processes are, we advise you to take a closer look through the viewfinder. In it you will see many different numbers indicating different shooting parameters. Including those that we told you about today. If you shoot in automatic or semi-automatic mode, then these will be the indicators that the camera itself has set for this particular case; if you decide to adjust the shooting parameters yourself, then you will see them in these numbers. In addition, from these indicators you will learn how the camera’s automation evaluates the currently available lighting.

Let's look at the illustration.

This is roughly what these numbers look like in the viewfinder window of a digital SLR camera. In the case shown in the illustration, the shutter speed is set to 1/125 of a second, the aperture is 4, and the light sensitivity is 200 units. But now turn your attention to the exposure level indicator, which is located in the center. Based on his testimony, it becomes clear to a knowledgeable photographer that not enough light is reaching the camera sensor. This can be seen by the glowing segment of the indicator, which is located to the left of its center, closer to the minus icon. If we had a segment on the right, closer to the plus sign, glowing, it means that the matrix is ​​receiving excess light. Conclusion: you need to strive to ensure that the central segment of the light indicator lights up.

Thus, now it is clear to you: ideally, theoretically, the glowing central segment of the exposure level indicator tells us that our picture in terms of illumination, that is, exposure, will be simply ideal, in other words, moderately dark and moderately light. Of course, minor exposure adjustments are occasionally necessary, but usually adjusting them to the position of the center segment of the light indicator will be the best choice.

Now let's have a little workshop.

How to get a great exposure photo

Let's imagine that we were invited to some house to take photographs at a family holiday. As is usually the case, the lighting in the room where the celebration will take place can be considered normal, but, nevertheless, not ideal, not excellent. Considering everything that you have already learned about from our article today, it becomes clear to you: the light sensitivity of the matrix needs to be raised to at least 800 ISO units. Naturally, shooting at ISO 100 would be much better, the pictures would be of better quality, but, nevertheless, this option will have to be discarded. Shooting at such a photosensitivity is simply impossible in our conditions.

You, of course, understand that the lack of light in this situation can be corrected by opening the aperture wider. For example, your camera lens allows you to set the widest aperture to F/4. Therefore, this is its value that needs to be established. The shallow depth of field in this case should suit you quite well: a “four” on the aperture scale will give the photo a beautifully blurred background and a clearly depicted main subject. Everything will work out like a professional.

Go ahead. Next step. Setting the shutter speed. Since we will be photographing people in motion, in order for them not to be blurred in our photo, the shutter speed needs to be set shorter. Well, for example, at 1/200 of a second. Now let's take a closer look at the viewfinder and focus by pressing the shutter button halfway. What will we see in the viewfinder field of view? What numbers? And here they are approximately:

You realized that with this exposure settings, your photo will turn out too dark. This is obvious; you don’t even have to press the shutter button. Your lens aperture is opened to its maximum size. It is simply technically impossible to increase it. Increase light sensitivity? Then we will lose in quality... In order to give the matrix a normal portion of light for a good exposure, you are left with one of all possible options: make the shutter speed longer. Moreover, it is quite possible to lengthen the shutter speed without even taking your eyes off the viewfinder eyepiece! To do this, you just need to turn the wheel located on the camera body in one direction or another with your finger. In exactly the same way, you can change all the other exposure settings that we talked about and talk about in today's article. Study the instructions for your camera carefully, and we hope you will easily understand how this is done on your specific camera.

Now you understand that solving the problem of correcting exposure parameters is quite easy by moving one single control lever - the wheel. In this way, you can easily ensure that the central segment of the light indicator lights up.

In order to take photographs without very noticeable blurring and blurring of the image, a shutter speed of 1/100 of a second should be quite enough for you. But don't forget that in order to shoot at slower shutter speeds, you'll have to limit yourself to photographing static scenes or, at worst, shooting on a tripod altogether.

Well, if you don’t have a tripod yet, and you risk shooting handheld, and all the exposure adjustments lead to the shutter speed being too long, for example, 1/50 of a second, then you will need to increase the light sensitivity of the matrix. There is, however, another option to get out of this situation: reduce the focal length of the lens. If, of course, your camera has such an opportunity.

Well, if you decide to take pictures with flash, then it is possible to shoot at lower shutter speeds, since any flash tends to freeze movement.

How to Use Aperture Priority Mode and Auto Mode

There are situations when a beginner or inexperienced photographer simply gets confused in the exposure settings of his camera. In this case, we recommend switching to fully automatic shooting mode and monitoring the camera's operation in this mode as closely as possible. This observation will help you orient yourself a little in the camera settings, after which you can easily “play” with these settings in manual mode.

Let's return to our practical task - photographing a family celebration taking place indoors. The manual mode of the camera seems a little irritating to you, and even somewhat inconvenient. Let's take another situation as an example: filming a basketball match between two teams. Gym, evening outside. The lighting on the site is, of course, artificial. In addition, it varies quite noticeably at different points on the site. We hope there is no need to say that the subject of photography, that is, the basketball players, are in constant and rapid motion. You have to shoot at different lens focal lengths. In some cases, you will want to film the general plan of the game, in some cases - the fight for the ball of three or four players, in some cases - a close-up of a player’s face with a unique characteristic facial expression... Therefore, shooting in completely manual mode will be quite problematic for you here : after all, every now and then you will need to change numerous camera settings, and then you simply will not have time to photograph much.

In this case, we recommend a simple way out of the situation. Set your camera to aperture priority mode. In some models of modern digital SLR cameras, they are indicated by the AV symbol, and in others, by the A symbol. Aperture priority mode gives you the ability to set your own aperture and light sensitivity. This gives you complete control over noise levels and depth of field. And your camera will automatically adjust the shutter speed to these parameters. At the same time, look through the viewfinder at the exposure parameters. You will see that the camera's automation dynamically adjusts all shooting parameters so that the central segment of the exposure level indicator lights up. Moreover, she does this completely regardless of how you photograph.

However, when shooting in aperture priority mode, you will have to watch your shutter speed one way or another. This must be done in order to be sure that the automation has not set the shutter speed too long. As in the situation already described, in this case, pay attention that it does not fall below 1/100 of a second. If the shutter speed is close to critical, you need to try changing other exposure parameters by reconfiguring the camera. Give the matrix as much light as possible. Please note that on a small camera display, a picture always looks much better than when viewed on a normal monitor. You may be disappointed to see your large format photos blurry.

In general, if you have the opportunity, try to avoid shooting in automatic or semi-automatic modes. The more you practice in manual shooting mode, the easier it will be for you to select the correct exposure settings, exactly those that will be most suitable in a given situation. And then you will have complete freedom in your creativity. And you will become a true photographer-artist.

Results and conclusions

First. If you took the first test shot, and when viewing it on the camera display screen you saw a photo that was too light, first try increasing the shutter speed, that is, the shutter speed, making the aperture narrower, or lowering the light sensitivity of the matrix. All these indicators can be changed either individually or all together. Conversely, if the image turns out to be too dark, open the aperture wider, increase the ISO value and lengthen the shutter speed. Everything is short and clear.

Second. Carefully monitor the exposure level indicator in the field of view of your camera’s viewfinder, and try to adjust all exposure parameters so that its central segment lights up. If its other segments light up, intervene in the process yourself and adjust all settings manually.

And one last thing. If you have problems shooting in manual mode, switch to shooting in automatic mode and start taking a closer look at the settings that the camera tells you. It is also possible to switch to aperture priority mode or shutter priority mode.

Almost every family now has a digital SLR camera, but not everyone will bother to figure out how to use it correctly. If you are a beginner photographer, then this article is for you! Exposure in photography is the basics of professional photography. You won't be able to take a single good shot if you don't know the first thing photographers learn. They simply must know the rules of exposure in photography. The parameters that are included in this concept seem incredibly complex only at first glance.

So, let's figure out what exposure is in photography. for beginner photographers? First of all, you should learn basic terminology, because without it you will not understand any instructions and will not be able to put into practice advice from professional articles.

Terms

Exposure in photography is a list of specific parameters, each of which is adjusted to the situation in which the shooting takes place. Your gadget, acting through the lens, measures the amount of light that comes in from outside and transmits commands to the settings. Good light is vital to a good photo.

Exposure parameters

Let's look at the meaning of exposure parameters.

• Aperture (f). The lens of your device has thin blades (plastic or iron) that open and close the hole in the lens. The aperture limits the amount of light that passes through the lens. This value is marked with the letter f, and the number next to it will indicate a small or large value. There is such a thing as aperture number. It is designated F/x. In this fraction x is
• Excerpt. This parameter is measured in seconds and fractions of a second. Indicates the time the light beam is exposed to the sensitive material of the camera.
• Light sensitivity (ISO) reflects how the film or sensor reacts to light. The higher the ISO number, the brighter the image will be.

White balance

Another important parameter when shooting is white balance. BB is responsible for color rendering in your shots. This is a complex parameter that can be left untouched during normal shooting. Auto-tuning of your gadget is enough.

It happens that the photographer is not satisfied with the color rendition in the frames. This means that you should adjust the white balance yourself. To do this, use a special gray card. If it is not there, then just take a photo of a white sheet of paper. Your gadget will take it as a standard. There is another option, in the settings you can select one of the parameters: cloudy, incandescent, daylight, and so on.

You may also hear the expressions “exposure pair” and “exposure triangle” from professionals.

An exposure pair is a tandem: aperture and shutter speed. The exposure triangle is all three parameters discussed above. You should be very careful when shooting in manual mode, since here you can set each parameter separately. You should know: changes in each of the parameters will be displayed in the image.

Let's play with the aperture: bokeh effect

What does this funny name mean? This is when the photo shows a person, and around him you see a blurred background, the outlines of colored circles, dots, snowflakes, multi-colored stripes. The background looks elegant, and nothing distracts the eye from it. The bokeh effect can turn the most boring image into a masterpiece! Let's move on to practice.

Settings for your optics

What, in principle, does the bokeh effect depend on? If you need to specifically achieve a curly effect, then you cannot do without special filters that are simply put on the lens. To make the background just blurry, you will need to work on the gadget settings.

So, bokeh depends on:

• from the depth of space;
• degree of sharpness of shooting objects.

The degree of blur is determined by the following parameters:

• Diaphragm. She plays the most important role here. The more the petals open, the more blurred the background will become. Advice! Be careful when setting your aperture to the widest possible aperture. While one person in such a photo will most likely turn out well, a group of people or buildings will most likely turn out out of focus. Use the bokeh effect wisely; it is not relevant everywhere.
• Focal length. The larger it is, the more noticeable the effect will become. If your optics have a zoom lens, then simply rotate its circle.
• Distance to the subject. The closer you are to the person, the more likely you are to get a nice blurry background. Don't overdo it, because the device still needs to adjust the focus. It is optimal if there is a distance of one meter between the person and the background. Then the background will become a masterpiece.

People for whom photography is their bread, purchase fast lenses for their work. This is expensive professional equipment, but with such lenses the bokeh effect is amazing.

Macro lenses and blurry portrait lenses are also suitable for blurring. The first ones are needed for shooting very small objects.

Bokeh effect and improvised materials

To create a blurry effect, you don’t have to buy a lot of expensive filters and torment your camera with complex settings. Many professionals are helped out by improvised means. It could be:

• polyethylene film;
• light fabric (chiffon, organza);
• scarves with interesting patterns.

These things can be used as background. Don’t forget: it’s optimal that there is a distance of one meter between the background and the object.

There is another option for using a plastic bag. Wrap it around the lens so that there is a small gap where the subject will fit. You can secure the bag with small pieces of tape.

Cut out a circle or other desired shape in a piece of plexiglass, cardboard, hardboard. This homemade filter will allow you to take unique photos, just attach it properly to the lens. Cloth or scarves can also be placed around the edge of the lens to create a unique effect.

Exposure settings

Exposure in photography is very important. So let's talk about setting it up. Each camera has its own subtleties in building exposure. In the instructions you will find how to correctly use the “hot keys” on the case. For example, in Nikon DSLRs you can use the Fn button to adjust ISO. The wheel next to the screen will allow you to adjust the shutter speed. To adjust the aperture, you need to press the small button next to the shutter button.

Semi-automatic modes of DSLR cameras

To take photos with different exposures, you can choose one of the gadget's semi-automatic modes. This is a great option for beginners. By changing just one of the three most important parameters, you will get the correct exposure in digital photography.

On a professional Canon SLR camera, the tv icon on the wheel means shutter priority; av - aperture priority.

Nikon's creative modes:

• M - manual mode.
• P - semi-automatic mode.

Advice! Beginners should use semi-automatic mode, focusing on aperture or shutter priority. Manual mode will be difficult at first. You shouldn’t simplify your life and use automatic settings. As it shows, it’s convenient, but over time you will simply be too lazy to understand the settings and you will lose the opportunity to engage in creative photography.

Advice from professionals in this matter is very important, but you will only get great photos after gaining practice. Shoot as much as possible, write down the values ​​of successfully set parameters, as well as indicators that should be avoided.

Advice! Do not ignore the instructions for the gadget. This knowledge will fully give you the opportunity to take excellent shots.

Exposure scale

The exposure scale is a parameter that will tell you how correctly you have set the triangle values. Use your camera's manual to find the exposure level indicator on your camera. Look at him. Are the values ​​skewed to the right? The photo will be too light. When deviating to the left, it is overexposed. Correct exposure in photography is when the mark is at zero.

The exposure scale can also be adjusted manually. If the exposure compensation is set to zero, and the photo is not light or dark enough, then play with the indicator slider.

Metering exposure in photography (modes)

There are three exposure modes in photography. These are matrix, point and weighted average. Let's look at each of them:

• Matrix is ​​also called multi-valued, evaluative or multi-valued. In this mode, the camera itself measures the exposure in the photo. To work you will need uniform lighting. This is the most hassle-free mode.
• Center-weighted. The mode measures in the center. The edges of the image are left out. An excellent mode for working on portraits.
• Spot. The most difficult mode. A beginner can't handle it. Similar to the previous one, but only 5% of the image is measured. To work, you need the subject to be well lit and have contrast.

Metering methods

The types of exposure metering were listed above, but they all have a significant drawback. The result depends little on the lighting, it is affected only by the subject of shooting. For example, let's take two plates of vegetables. One of them will be orange, the second will be blue. The lighting in the room is the same, and the light falls evenly on the dishes. Using spot metering, we find out the exposure value of each object. Interestingly, the blue plate has a lower brightness, and the yellow one has a higher brightness. But if you look at it, it shouldn’t be like this, because the lighting conditions of the objects are the same.

How does light affect exposure metering?

The reason for such differences in exposure under the same lighting conditions is the reflectivity of different colors. You can continue your research and change the dishes to white and black. The illumination should not change. Naturally, exposure for a black plate is needed more than for snow-white dishes. Conclusion: when metering, it is not the illumination of the subject being photographed that is taken into account, but its reflective characteristics.

Exposure in a smartphone camera

Understanding exposure in photography means getting great pictures on any gadget! Modern smartphones are equipped with an excellent camera, and the pictures often come out no worse than with a professional camera. And the portability of the device is a huge plus, because it is not always possible to carry a bulky mirror gadget with you.

Unfortunately, it is almost impossible to influence the exposure in the built-in camera. The built-in function itself takes measurements and distributes the light flow.

Gaunt L. “Exposure in Photography”

The book talks about setting up an exhibition as a creative process. The author enthusiastically tells how close this process is to art, because this is far from a boring collection of measurement indicators!

In the book “Exposure in Photography” by Gaunt, it is said that with correctly selected parameters, the main thing is that the tonality in the photograph is maintained. White and black colors should be pure, and intermediate shades should not be distorted.

What will the book teach? The author will tell you that correct exposure in photography is about deciding what tone will be given to the picture. This book will help you understand how important exposure is in photography. The famous author of the book will tell you how to avoid mistakes in this matter.

Know your camera's capabilities. When a person first picks up a DSLR camera and begins to understand the settings, the most difficult stage is learning the basics of exposure in photography. Having dealt with this issue, you will become one step closer to the art of professional photography.

In this article, you learned what information you can see in your camera's viewfinder and how to use it correctly to take photos with the correct exposure. Having purchased complex equipment, such as a SLR camera, you must learn the instructions like a mantra. If you don’t know what most of the buttons on the gadget are for, then going into the settings will only confuse you. So learn, and your family albums will be filled with exceptionally high-quality photographs.

Exposition. For most novice photographers, this word raises many questions: What does the word exposure mean in photography? How to display it correctly? What does this concept include?

The history of this term dates back to the era of film cameras, when (oh, horror!) auto shooting modes had not yet been invented, and photographers independently set all the necessary parameters. And in order not to waste such a precious frame of film, they used a very cunning device - an exposure meter, which was intended for exposure time (what this is, you will find out later) and aperture number. As for photosensitivity, this parameter in film cameras was set depending on the available film.

So what is “camera exposure”? This is the amount of light falling on the film or matrix of a digital camera over a certain time. This is called exposure.

The Exposure Triangle in Photography

In the world of photography, there are only three parts that make up the perfect exposure: shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. Correct exposure in photography is like a perfect triangle: all sides are equal. Changing any side of the “exposure triangle” immediately changes the other sides.

As you already understand, dear beginners, all components of exposure depend on each other, and you must take this into account in order to make the right choice of exposure in each photo.

As we have already said, previously cameras did not have automatic modes and an abundance of settings. Often, photographers worked either on a sunny day, in good light, or indoors, using a powerful flash. No sunset, night lights, or shooting moving objects. Back then people worked with what they had.

Today, sophisticated cameras are freely available, each camera has a huge number of modes and different functions - accordingly, we, modern photographers, expect much more both from the equipment and from our work. We want to be in complete control of the process. And in order to do this successfully, we need to not only know what the word exposure means, but also understand the settings of its elements.

Diaphragm.

With this link you can adjust the size of the hole that allows light to pass through the lens to the sensor. Using a wide aperture, you can create stunning portraits with blurred backgrounds and work in low-light conditions.

Excerpt

This parameter largely controls the temporal duration of the light flux duration. You will need to adjust this exposure element when shooting moving objects.

ISO

The third element of the exposure characterizes the matrix’s ability to perceive light fluxes. Setting the light sensitivity is extremely important. High values ​​of this parameter can provoke the appearance of strong digital noise, which can act as an analogue of grain.

Multiple exposure

Multiple exposure is a special technique in photography that involves exposing (“photographing”) the same frame several times.

This effect can be achieved using various graphic editors by overlaying several images on top of each other, or by repeatedly using pulsed light during one exposure. The first case undoubtedly expands your artistic capabilities, however, the creative satisfaction from the successful use of the second option is simply immeasurable. Double exposure photos look quite interesting.

EXPOSITION EXPOSITION (from the Latin expositio - presentation, description), selection and placement of exhibits according to a certain principle (thematic, chronological, etc.) in museums and exhibitions.

Modern encyclopedia. 2000 .

See what “EXPOSITION” is in other dictionaries:

exposition- and, f. exposition f., German Exposition lat. expositio presentation, description. 1. Placing objects on display in a certain system. New exposition of the exhibition. BAS 1. || A collection of exhibited objects located in... ... Historical Dictionary of Gallicisms of the Russian Language

- (lat.). exposition, explanation, exposition. Dictionary of foreign words included in the Russian language. Chudinov A.N., 1910. EXPOSITION 1) exposure to light; 2) exposure before photographic. apparatus for removing objects. Dictionary of foreign... ... Dictionary of foreign words of the Russian language

EXPOSITION, exposition, women. (lat. expositio). 1. The introductory part of a literary or musical work, containing motives that are developed further (lit., music). 2. Arrangement, layout, hanging, etc. items...... Ushakov's Explanatory Dictionary

- (amount of illumination, light exposure), surface density of light energy: the ratio of light energy dQ incident on a surface element dA to the area of ​​this element. An equivalent definition is the product of illumination E by... ... Physical encyclopedia

Placement, exposure, prologue, illumination, irradiation, exhibition, exposure, exposure, position, location Dictionary of Russian synonyms. exposition excerpt Dictionary of synonyms of the Russian language. Practical guide. M.: Russian language. Z.E... Synonym dictionary

- (from the Latin expositio display, presentation), placement in exhibition and museum premises or in the open air according to a certain system of various works of art, monuments of material culture, historical ... ... Art encyclopedia

EXPOSITION- (1) the photographic amount of illumination imparted to the photosensitive material when photographing and filming a million prints; the amount of exposure is determined (see); (2) E. radiation energy per unit surface area... ... Big Polytechnic Encyclopedia

Exposition- (from the Latin expositio presentation, description) external, semi-quantitative and quantitative assessment of the concentration, frequency and duration of exposure of a substance to the body. Ecological encyclopedic dictionary. Chisinau: Main editorial office of the Moldavian... ... Ecological dictionary

exposition- The process by which radiation is detected by an imaging system. [Non-destructive testing system. Types (methods) and technology of non-destructive testing. Terms and definitions (reference book). Moscow 2003] exposure Parameter ... Technical Translator's Guide

exposition- Orientation of mountain slopes and any forms of relief in relation to the cardinal points and to prevailing air currents. Syn.: slope exposure... Dictionary of Geography

Books

• Exposition. Practical guide. A simple and effective system for choosing the perfect exposure, Freeman Michael. Exposition. Practical guide. A simple and effective system for choosing the ideal exposure for a photo - in any conditions and in any lighting. In this book: Simple and effective...